On Monday, December 4th, we were scheduled to leave Perm. Often on this journey, it seems we are running on tight deadlines. The passport can be processed on one business day but can potentially take two. The application was turned in on Friday, December 1st, but it was not completed on the same day, despite our coordinator’s best efforts, because four out of five employees were out sick. We were hoping it would come through on Monday so we could leave on a 7 pm flight to Moscow as scheduled. On Monday we spent the day packing and meeting more couples arriving for their second trip. I drew maps for them, got Helena down for a nap and accompanied one couple to my favorite shopping area “children’s world” to make a last minute purchase of decorative barrettes for Helena to wear when she gets older. It’s a lot of pressure to consider what memorabilia might be important to Helena in a decade or two. I also purchased some soviet style hats for the boys.
When I arrived back around 2 pm, Helena was up from her nap and we finalized our packing. Our coordinator picked me up at 3:30 pm to go the passport office while Mike stayed with Helena in the hotel room waiting for our 5:15 pm scheduled departure to the airport. The passport office was up four flights of stairs in an unimpressive, run down building, reminiscent of where I would imagine an illegal office to be located. There were about twenty people waiting in line. Our coordinator whisked me past the crowd and guards, who were cracking jokes and were the least stern faced men I’d seen guarding anything in Russia. We anxiously waited for over an hour for the passport, right up to the deadline of 5 pm, when finally, the passport was completed in the nick of time. Our coordinator whisked me down four flights of stairs to the waiting car and back to the hotel where we met Michael, Helena, and our friend Mark, who was assisting us in bringing our luggage to the lobby.
In the lobby of the hotel, we stuffed Helena in her snowsuit and hat (this is a necessity because Russians will lecture you lest you forget) jumped in the car, and through a dusk-lit, rush hour complete with softly falling snow, drove to the airport with Helena crying most of the way. I found myself tearing up at the prospect of Helena leaving her birth city and what she might envision this moment to be like in the years ahead. I wondered if her crying now reflected some level of sub-conscious angst. I found myself also nostalgic about my time in Perm, and missing what had become my home for three weeks. I knew that it seemed unlikely that we would ever return here, and if and when we did, perhaps on some mission trip fifteen years hence, it would be a far different place than the city I had visited in 2006.
Checking in at the airport went smoothly and then we waited an additional hour before boarding our flight. We noticed a Spanish couple with their newly adopted beautiful, pale, strawberry blonde toddler, and exchanged knowing looks. We didn’t yet realize we would be sharing more time with this family later in the evening. We boarded the plane on time and expected a timely departure. The Spanish couple was seated in the row in back of us and the girl was calm except for the occasional kick in my back.
The plane began to prepare for take-off and circled the terminal. We began feeding Helena finger foods to keep her in place and were ready with a bottle to stuff in her mouth once we’d left the ground, to encourage swallowing to release pressure in her ears. We also gave her a small dose of Benadryl, hoping it would help dry her sinuses and have a sedative effect. After several moments of what we thought was pre-flight ground movement, the plane stopped. Mike looked out the window and remarked that we were back at the exact same place we had started. The mobile staircases moved towards the center and front of the plane. We looked around to see if we could glean any information from the faces of other passengers since any announcements were delivered in Russian. No one spoke English but soon everyone began departing the plane and we followed suit, Mike carrying the luggage, me carrying Helena in the front carrier. It was snowing heavily by now and the terminal was about 200 yards away. Someone motioned for me to get into the front seat of a van and I did, leaving Michael behind to walk. They deposited me at stairwell leading to a different room than the one I’d departed from. I climbed the stairs wondering if I’d ever see Michael again, but I quickly surmised it was their version of a lounge and Michael soon joined me upstairs.
In the lounge, there were several U-shaped couches, a bar, a large TV with a news channel set at full volume and several businessmen. We joined the Spanish couple and settled in to take turns chasing Helena all over the room and prevent her from bumping her head or crawling under the glass coffee tables. It was getting past her bedtime (of 8 o’clock) and she was becoming tired and irritable but the lounge was full of men speaking loudly on cell phones and a loud TV, so it was too stimulating for her to sleep. I carried her around in the carrier and by now she was crying periodically at full throttle. We’d exchanged brief information via sign language with the Spanish couple. Their daughter was eighteen months old. She stood in the same place between her parents the entire time we were in the lounge while her new papa fed her cookies and her mama laid back and rested. We were quite a contrast and I found myself thinking how slim we would be either in the next few years due to chasing Helena or having food grabbed out of our hands by her as we eat, as she is already prone to do.
After about an hour and a half, an announcement was made that we could not understand, but because everyone began to put on their coats and pack up their things, we did as well. We were shuttled to a different plane. Apparently the previous plane was not fit for flight (one of something was not working) and we boarded another plane. Michael later confessed to me (once we’d safely arrived in Moscow) that the plane was thirty to forty years old, which in plane years is an antique, and probably something that would be safer in a museum. I’m glad he waited until later to tell me.
The plane trip was a good dress rehearsal for the flight home to the states, which, one of my friends has noted, is considered the adoption “birth.” Some are easy, some are not, and we were fairly sure by now that Benadryl was acting as a stimulant, not a sedative for Helena. Helena now became 16 pounds of writhing mass, she was not happy about being restricted to four square feet of space. She was tired, she was over stimulated, the lights were on, and she had experienced way too many changes in a few days. It was exhausting for us, but frankly, I felt that she was entitled to express any emotion she felt! She cried and writhed, arching her back and flinging her head backwards which she is prone to do when she is upset. Michael tried to amuse her and she had moments of contentment looking back at the peaceful toddler (of the Spanish couple) behind us, but generally she was just mad. We’d exhausted our supply of food for her and because Mike was sure there would be a meal for us (there wasn’t) we had little with us and were starving. I did manage to locate a small chocolate bar and we split it and stuffed it in our mouths without Helena noticing. (No, we are not giving her chocolate yet, though I am extremely embarrassed to admit she has had a french fry or two.)
After about 30 minutes of the playing, writhing, crying dance, I made a decision to do some tough love and take control of the situation. I held onto her tightly on my lap, tummy to tummy and placed my hand on the back of her head to keep her from arching. She struggled and wailed nonstop for about ten minutes and then finally fell asleep on my shoulder. After a while, I managed to put her down on the seat between us and she slept for about an hour. I found myself wondering what this might be like for inexperienced parents or parents who had reservations about the child they had adopted. We knew that this was transitional; we knew we were committed to her, and this was just a difficult time in the life of our child who we loved.
We finally arrived in Moscow and our coordinator met us and escorted us to our hotel, The Courtyard Marriott. It was now 1 am Perm time, 11 pm Moscow time. We were tired, we were hungry and I’d realized the scratchy throat I’d thought was a reaction to the smoke in the lounge in Perm, was turning into a sore throat accompanying a cold. The coordinator seemed surprised that we were not in better spirits. I guess most couples arrive in the middle of the night after a difficult flight jumping for joy? In the car she explained to us that the embassy physical for Helena in the morning might require an additional blood test (because they may mistrust those performed in region) that would delay our trip by a day. Yippee, I was in an even better mood! Helena was now passed out in Michael’s arms, and fortunately, once we arrived to the hotel, getting her to bed was no problem. Due to my cold and benadryl, I slept great! Mike was still getting accustomed to the time change, and was also concerned about Helena, so he stayed awake listening to her snore.